Elegance is in the details and at Mori Venice Bar it’s in the decor and the cuisine. Remodeled in 2010 in a blend of the crisp modern style of Philippe Starck and the refinement of Italy, you know that you are in for a rich experience from the moment you walk in. Murano glassware, Venetian mirrors, chandeliers made by a client–a veritable museum.
The all-Italian staff comes from all over the country and began with Antonio, the charming maitre’d from Naples. He escorted us to our table and suggested a bellini, that classic Venetian cocktail of the juice of fresh white peaches and prosecco.
A young man from Sicily presented a prosciutto of cured cochon noir accompanied by a sharp mustardo di Cremona containing bits of fruit confit, followed by our next server from Abruzzo who poured a young (2012) but impressive Cecchetto 100% cabernet franc.
M began her meal with Caviale & ovi, two organic eggs, poached and topped with Venetian Beluga Caviar and resting on a sea of cream of watercress while I had a simply wonderful burrata served with cherry tomatoes confit, Taggiasche olives and arugula.
Enough with the preliminaries, now it was time to eat. We selected with an eye to sharing. For M, Belfritto a classic Venetian dish of an assortment of seafood including langoustines, calamari, éperlans, shrimp, cigale de mer, arancino de mer with sauce mascaron on the side.
I opted for a whole roasted sea bass perfumed with lemon and cardoman that was fileted table side and served with a stuffed apple-shaped zucchini–simply perfection.
Desserts were served from a rolling cart and concocted on the spot. We both chose affogatti. For me a scoop of peche de vigne and vanilla topped with golden Corinthian raisins soaked in aged rum and M devoured, with a little help, her vanilla and chocolate ice cream topped with amerena (sour black cherries.)
No meal at Mori would be complete without a grappa from the finest collection in Paris. Antonio selected a perfumed Tuscan blend of sangiovese and cabernet sauvignon and for me a man’s drink, a crystal clear, triple-distilled, merlot that I could imagine being shared over cigars by mafia dons after a successful hit-whew!
Come to Mori expecting to spend money but it will be money well spent.
At 50 euros, entrée, plat, dessert and a flute of prosecco, the luncheon menu is an ideal way to be introduced to Mori.
2 rue de 4 Septembre 75001
Open Daily 12PM-3PM, 8:00PM-11:30PM
Tel: 01 44 55 51 55
Brunch in Venice
An elegant and leisurely Sunday afternoon that would have pleased the Doges.This award-winning Philippe Starck designed space is matched by a leisurely and elegantly served meal featuring Venetian specialties.
Espresso, cappuccino, thé,
Jus de fruit pressé, orange ou pamplemousse Ciabatta, brioches Italiane, Tarte à la confiture de fraise,
Pan del Doge, sélection de nos confitures maison.
Œufs bios en croute de mais, crème d’épinards.
Gnocchi maison de potiron, crème de ricotta, fromage ricotta fumé et anis.
Nos tartes du jour :
Tendre gâteau au chocolat et sa sauce à la clémentine et cardamome,
Salade de fruits frais,
Tiramisu maison à la cuillère.
Espresso « Illy »
Acqua Panna, San Pellegrino.
43€ per person 49€ with a coupe de prosecco.
I couldn’t make it to Venice this year (2102) so I headed for Mori Venice Bar in Paris for Maestro Massimo Mori’s annual Carnevale bash.
Philippe Starck has done a complete remodel of the best and most expensive Italian restaurant in Paris but remembering the axiom of rapport qualité-prix it’s worth it from the impeccable and often unique ingredients that Massimo will describe in lovingly professorial style to the table ware that changes with each course-fit for a sheik’s budget and at lunch time for all of us. And the best assortment of grappa in Paris awaits you at the spectacular bar.
I was joined on this occasion by 3 colleagues from the eating business and the agelessly (88 years old) elegant Charles Aznavour who was seated at an adjacent table. Mustering all of the self-control I could I refrained from singing a few bars of Hier Encore for his amusement.
As we were seated, waiters were flitting about and pouring flutes of Laurent-Perrier brut millésime 2000 to sip with the delicious chunks of aged Reggio-Parmesano.
We started with a velvety pumpkin soup with chestnuts and shaved black truffles from Alba and marscapone foam.
We selected a Langhe Vacca Franceso Rosso 2009 for our meal and continued with sautéed baby artichokes with a large, poached egg (bio) and once again sprinkled with those black truffles from Alba.
The wine was drinking beautifully so we stayed with it to accompany the two giant ravioli of Spider crab in a citron sauce with Venetian caviar.
The filet de bar was perfectly pan-sautéed-crunchy skin, moist and flavorful. It arrived on a bed of sautéed watercress and walnuts with a mound of truffled potatoes-bad night to be a truffle.
The dessert was remarkable-Sicilian orange ‘tarocco’ poached in grenadine and orange flowers that shared the plate with a mousse de chocolat Amadei black Tuscan.
Grappa and limoncello all around put the exclamation point on this festive evening.
images-1Mori Venice Bar, 27 rue Vivienne 75002 Tel: 01-44 55 51 55
Lunch daily from 12PM-3PM, Dinner 8PM-11:30PM