Chapeau pour le jeune (35 ans) Chef Irwin Durand who after years of collaborating with the great Guy Savoy at the 3 star Musée de la Monnaie and Chiberta has proudly opened his first restaurant.
The site of a former 100 seat bistro has been remodelled to accommodate 30 diners in two areas: an 8-cover table d'hote facing the restaurant's open kitchen, and a 22-cover room, divided into alcoves, for a “convivial, warm space.” The walls are adorned with Japanese burnt wood.
A team of seven recruited from Chef Durand's former co-workers ably assist in the kitchen and sommelier Mickael Larrive oversees the dining room. At a dining room of this caliber one is obligated to begin with a coupe de champagne. Mickael selected a Chateau Thienot and our feast began.
The symphony began with Migliacciu a chestnut tart with Brébie sprinkled with dill that was ethereally light and refreshing.
To prepare us for the next course a single spear of white asparagus in creamy lemon and thyme we sipped a vegetable bouillon infused with marjoram.
After a few more sips of wine we were served a filet of sole accompanied by a confit of leeks and a Quincy.
We lingered over the Quincy and then the butter soft ris de veau in its own juices and a stew of green vebetables accompanied by one of our favorite wines, Clos Monalbanie, a Pecharment from Chateaau Tiregand,
I loosened my belt and awaited desserts. First course a medley of vanillas and misos followed by a strawberry tarte and Nyons olive sprinkled with Nyons olive oil and rosemary. A glass of Vouvray from Maison Huet and a fine meal was complete. Bravo!
IRWIN 22 rue cambaceres 75008 paris